Slab climbing reddit. I’ve been climbing for about a year.

Slab climbing reddit Four months later, I'm still recovering and not climbing. I love climbing slab, crimps are my first love, and I’m coming around to slopers. 1K votes, 59 comments. just play around. Slab climbing on Safe Harbor Direct 5. I currently use the scarpa vapor v’s which I’m happy with bc the have a relatively hard sole and wide toe-box but I’m wondering if there might be something better out there. While a 60* wall is less steep. It is characterized by balance- and friction-dependent moves on very small holds. Climbing well and gaining noticeable muscle mass are kind of antithetical in my experience. I’ve noticed that my main limitation has been bicep soreness, both as it arises over the course of a session and how I still feel sore climbing two days or less after another climbing/gym session. Unparalleled Mocc for most general climbing and Sportiva Testarossa for hard climbing. Climbing shoes are designed to lose rubber on the rock/hold and need to be resoled or replaced. I'll be laughing my ass off when they're getting the Elvis leg shake when they're 5' above their last piece on a "measly 5. but damn did slab not teach me a LOT about my feet and what's "good". Jun 11, 2024 · Slab Climbing Tips and Tricks Maximizing Rubber Contact with the wall when smearing. Many world class V15/5. don't tense up or you might catch an edge, flip over, or just plain old break something. You cannot train slab footwork in the gym, its impossible. I'm trying to build a cave spider xp farm using a spawner and I've got all the water streams setup and the spiders are being pushed to where I want them to go but as soon as they drop into my pit they climb straight back out again and end up filling the corners of my spawn room, is there anything I can do to stop them climbing Which would be very noticeable at any climbing gym. 1 gym on such walls. Don't assume bouldering is safe, even in Context - I've been climbing for 5 years, at anything between V5 to V7 (indoor) depending on style. It is often not leadable, or climbable from the ground up, unless it has pre-drilled bolts to protect the climb, making most slab climbs either top rope climbing First day in Vegas, we set out for "Dream of Wild Turkeys", a 7-pitch, 700 ft climb in Black Velvet Canyon. Each slab is different and most often failure is a poblem of moving imperfectly, at least for me. With traditional edged shoes, you can not only use the big toe but also the inside and outsides edges of the shoe. Testarossas are incredible all around except for toe hooks. While the softer angle enables climbers to place more of their body weight on their feet, slab climbs maintain the challenge by having smaller holds. I do some lead climbing, but the majority of my climbing is bouldering in the gym, due to convenience. Slab climbing is also very helpful. Once you start pushing into harder slab and face climbing outdoors, they absolutely require endurance albeit maybe a different type. Especially compared to V5 overhang vs V10 overhang. if you like friction slab, all i can say is: crest jewel. And yes we are scared of falling. Truth. Autumn slab climbing in Banff (Tunnel Mountain) r/climbing • Mike C on Instagram: "Cliff rescue of injured climber and partner, Lily Rock Idyllwild CA. What I really love about Safe Harbor though are those sweet sharp finger pockets on the Hydroman wall. Always feel good even when pasting on glassy quartzite and limestone. I came back to climbing from lifting a lot over the pandemic so I over relied on strength. Be cool. Slab shudder my dad ended his climbing career on a 5. Just remember, it doesn't have to be "good" it's only got to be "good enough. To be honest I don't believe anything on the South slabs is a contender for the best Arran slab climb never mind in the country. I'm currently in this boat. But usually flat and stiff shoes are only good on vertical and slabby terrain where you stand on small footholds or if you need the support for long climbing. " I also completely don't understand slab climbing because I just don't do it often. If you’re climbing / training 5-6 days a week, you’re probably just constantly fatigued, and trying as hard as your fatigued state can manage, rather than what you could do if you were properly rested. Some setters are really good at slab and therefore set really hard sandbagged slab problems. As an all rounder I personally love soft rubber with a stiffer mid sole, it sticks to tiny foot holds and smears but still allows me to generate power through my feet. /uj I (Scandinavian) went climbing in the US with a bunch of American crushers, all of them climbing about a grade harder than me. Not sure of the exact grade (V5-V7), but here’s an oldie but goodie. Anything bigger than 3/8-16 bolt head is already bigger than most slab feet out there. Ive been climbing 20 or so years and I definitely think that my built was advantageous up to about 5. Typically, I tend to like compression moves on steep overhang as they suit my climbing style more - there are balancy slab problems several grades below my hardest send that are probably years beyond me. NC slab climbing is a different world. 9s. If you're not sure what that is, it means that the angle of the wall is kind of foward leaning like this / (and imagine you are standing on the left side of that dash line). True smearing on smooth lower-angle rock. Either way, I agree. I think there are great shoes that are decent all around, but if you find yourself living somewhere where it’s only super steep climbing, tc pros probably arent your best bet - for example. The hard slab redpoints the best thing to do is to get on the pitch before its in the sun, so anything frictiony on the Apron or at Shannon Falls you should be fine before noonish. For super hard sport climbing, sometimes calf training is also key (ie Ondra had to focus on his calf strength when he trained for Silence). I love slab. Personal background. 25 foot ground fall when he was going for the first bolt. For gym climbing, my unpopular opinion is that the shoes don't matter that much. I mainly wanted to stick with Scarpa because my last shoes were Scarpa but if there is another shoe you would recommend, please let me know! Thanks (: I felt unable to put any weight onto my feet, which is generally the problem I experience climbing hard slabs (around 6b/6c for me). As per title, I'm awful at climbing anything on an overhang (V4-6 on slab/vert, V3-4 on overhang). Slab takes away the strength points and forces technique and footwork, which I had largely ignored. Go about one or two times a week. I know it is statistically unlikely that OP will be in this situation, but I delayed getting medical care for a while because I was convinced it was just a muscle strain and that delay ended up You're looking to turn your foot into a goats hoof. You didn't specify how much climbing mileage you had on those shoes, but I found the Shamans to be a pretty durable shoe. Slab walls are generally more dangerous as you're not necessarily falling onto mats straight down - so be prepared to push yourself away from the wall when you fall. I do all my moderate/slab climbing outside in the Anasazi Pro. I’ve been climbing for about a year. i prepard for that climb by exercising the shit put of my calves and by doing slab routes in gyms where i would eliminate hand holds all together. In my 20 years of climbing, ive rarely seen anyone climb as hard as i have without being about 9kg lighter. There are many factors that go into how long a shoe will last, some of which you've read here already. Softer shoes allow you to smear on all the volumes and large textured holds in the gym. I find it very therapeutic and a much better experience than big burly muscley climbs. I started really working out and climbing about 3 months ago. I've been afraid to train my back because i don't want to agitate it further. r/bouldering • I managed to develop medial epicondylitis on both arms after about 9 months in, I was climbing too often without enough rest. My first and only ever pair of shoes, my wonderful 5. They specifically requested workouts they can do at home to supplement what climbing they can fit in. Slab climbing. This photo makes it look casual and low angle. slabby slab slab!! I remember hating slab when I was learning to climb because of the cheese-grater effect. 9 0:18. All bouldering falls are to the mat, and you could fall wrong. Also, slab is a great way to get used to slopers and crimps and holds where you don’t have to put your entire weight on Indoor bouldering is not "safer" than rope climbing. Outside slab shuts me I'd like to bring up that this is a really fucking annoying answer, which always comes up when people ask this. None are super great at vertical edging but the instinct s might have the advantage. The most terrifying climbing experience of my life has been run-out slab in France. I'm not pushing harder grades currently though, mostly climbing to maintain my mental health (climbing out a pit of depression :D) edit: re-read OP's post. In rock climbing a slab climb (or friction climb) is a type of climbing route where the rock face is 'off-angle' and not fully vertical. I climb a little bit of everything, but I love slab, and end up spending probably 75 percent of my sessions on vertical or slab walls. Get whatever is comfortable and inexpensive. Finger strength (obvious), biceps (underclings), triceps (manteling, pressing moves), shoulders (wide moves, pressing moves, long reaches), chest (compression, pulling), back (pulling, core tension), front core (core tension, controlling swings and foot movement), hip flexors (high stepping), glutes/hamstrings (pulling with feet, heel hooks), quads (utilizing higher feet, slab climbing r/ClimbingCircleJerk: Mike is our patron, Honnold our saviour. 9" slab route. Looks like it! I dreams of one day climbing this, but first I need to send Phat Slab, Leonissisation (my slab project last summer), and maybe some of the terrifying runout slabs on the Apron. Jul 24, 2021 · 3. It also often requires flexibility that many climbers (especially men) do not have, and won’t put in the effort to achieve. I am a woman who has competed at a local level and the men are far, far stronger. One doesnt get that with overhangs. Pretty sure the pendulum part is where all the damage came from. 13. Then, maybe, I'll be ready to TR this a thousand times before attempting it as a boulder problem. Even as a boulderer it would be a bad training plan to only limit boulder. I like it because I have adhd and usually a very loud and "busy" brain, climbing slab forces you to slow down, breath and be calm. There's conflicting evidence about how much core strength helps you on the wall, but one thing that's indisputable is that you need a strong core to protect your back. This style is what people usually jump to assume when they hear "slab climbing". Bouldering / climbing only burns 8 - 10 calories per minute of active climbing. Shout out to properly sized Sportiva Skawamas. I ended up having to have an outpatient surgical procedure to fix it. On an overhang / roof, you generally just need to straighten your body by cutting loose, and you're typically not as far off the ground. This implies that a vertical slab is a 90* wall. The home of Climbing on reddit. Look at Kevin and Tommy on the Dawn Wall. Best way to train slabs is by trying slabs in my opinion. Different styles of climbing lends itself to different shoe types, having a few pairs in the quiver is never a bad thing. Couldn't find that same level of confidence in a more moderate shoe. I prefer aggressive shoes even on face or slab climbing, but it's way more of a comfort preference. Often, slab boulders or slab sections on routes require you to smear (using only the wall or a volume for your feet instead of a hold) against the wall. Hey everyone, been climbing for about 1. There are people who naturally build muscle easily and end up looking pretty muscular despite climbing often, but in general it is much easier to climb if you weigh less even if you’re mostly adding muscle mass. skcp kwhci heayrj xdgv danspyc qvezxsm fxb aexx rvmqgo cieax amil fshhh pjkt xdqekj rsmp